Review : 2013 Kestrel Talon ROAD Shimano 105 Carbon Fiber Bike

 

 2013 Kestrel Talon Road Shimano 105 Carbon Fiber Bike.

Authorized dealer-warranty is valid.

Free Maxx HD Sunglasses Valued at $39.99.

Kestrel's Talon grabs a hold of the top spot and never lets go.

The modular monocoque carbon frame features airfoil-shaped tubes, a rear-wheel cutout in the seat tube and internal cable routing to give you an aero advantage for more speed.

Up front, Kestrel's carbon fork smooths the road and lets you carve the corners with ease while dropped onto the aero bars or sprinting on the wings.

Shimano's reliable 105 components provide super smooth shifting and solid braking, while the Oval wheels spin quick and true. And, you get a svelte carbon seatpost and a whole suite of Oval's exceptional components.

MATERIAL- Carbon is the backbone of every Kestrel-it has been since 1986. Kestrel uses two grades of carbon: 700K & 800K.

The 700K is all muscle. Less resistant to bending, it's utilized in high-stress areas to reduce flex.

And the 800K adds finesse. The lighter of the two, it's utilized in lower stress areas to achieve the lightest possible overall frame weight. Each model employs a unique blend of these two fibers to create a powerful yet light weight bike.

Specifications :

Sizes48cm, 52cm, 55cm, 57cm, 60cm

Main frameBlend of 700K & 800K High Modulus Carbon Fiber

Rear triangle700K Carbon Fiber With Replaceable Derailleur Hanger

ForkEMS Pro SL Aero, Full Carbon, 1 1/8" - 1 1/4" Tapered Steerer

CranksetOval Concepts 730 Alloy Compact 50/34T (48cm, 52cm: 170mm; 55cm, 57cm: 172.5mm; 60cm: 175mm)

Bottom bracketOval Concepts Integrated, External Bearings

Front derailleurShimano Tiagra, Braze-on

Rear derailleurShimano 105, 10-sp

ShiftersShimano 105 STI

CassetteShimano Tiagra, 11-25T

ChainKMC X10 Nickel-plated 10-sp

Review : Diamondback 2013 Overdrive V 29'er Mountain Bike with 29-Inch Wheels

 

 

 

 

 

The bike industry often sees fads come and go. Innovation doesn’t always assure success or even relevance for that matter. But the 29er revolution seems to be one that’s here to stay and for good reason.

There’s no denying the rock crawling, root crushing power of a larger wheel. Making the largest of obstacles the smallest of matters is a defining trait of these muddy beasts. By offering decreased rolling resistance, increased traction when cornering and improved ground clearance, one ride upon one of these massive behemoths is sure to sway even the staunchest skeptic.

Benefits of a 29” Wheel

• Angle of Attack – Larger wheels decrease your angle of attack by allowing you to roll over obstacles easier and faster. Bigger wheel = smaller obstacle.

• Momentum – A larger wheel enables one to carry momentum easier though obstacles.

• Surface Contact – 29”wheels are less prone to sinking in soft material such as sand and mud due to the larger contact patch causing lower ground pressure. The longer contact patch increases cornering and straight line traction

• Stability – The relative position of the bottom bracket/cranks to the axles in the wheels also means that your relative center of gravity is lower. This results in a feeling of riding “in” the bike rather than on top of it.

• Tire Clearance – with more tire choices than any platform, the 29”wheel easily accommodates off road as well as commuting tires.

• Taller Riders – 29" bikes tend to offer taller riders a more “natural” frame geometry.

The Diamondback Overdrive V packs a punch in terms of value and affordability and takes 29ers to a new level. The newly revised 2013 6061-T6 Aluminum Overdrive series frame boasts of newly formed top and down tubes, a machined headtube, and forged drop outs with a replaceable derailleur hanger. The matte black finished frame has a look that matches its aggressive trail setup.

The Geometry is spot on—it just feels right. The slightly sloping top tube provides ample standover clearance. A 71° head tube angle and a 73° seat tube angle create the perfect XC/trail geometry. The 390mm (15.4 inch) chainstays equate to an extremely snappy rig and the ability to easily get the front wheel off the ground – something that not all 29ers can be so proud of.

The Overdrive Vis a fantastic entry level 29er well balanced between value and performance. The SR Suntour XCT fork gives you 100mm of travel for the perfect amount of cushion up front. Strong and reliable linear pull brakes keep everything under control, and Shimano shifting puts the perfect gear just a solid click away.

Weinmann SL-7 double wall rims with WTB Wolverine Comp folding tires mean that not too much is going to slow down this 29er. Diamondback signature alloy handlebars, stem post and Race saddle w/tubular cromo rails round out this package.

The 2013 Overdrive V is an great means of getting into a new 29er. Whether it’s your first 29er, you’re just “testing the waters”, or you want to add a new steed to the stable. The Overdrive V is offered in SM (16"), MD (18"), LG (20"), and XL (22"). 

Bike Specs :

Sizes  :   16" Small 18" Medium 20" Large 22" XLarge
Frame :    Overdrive 29" Butted 6061-T6 Aluminum w/ Formed Top / Down Tube, machined headtube, forged drop outs w/replaceable hanger, for V-Brake
Fork  :   SR Suntour XCT 100mm travel, 28.6mm stanchions
Rear Shock  :   N/A
Cranks  :   SR Suntour XCC-202, 22/32/42t
Bottom Bracket  :   Sealed Cartridge
F. Derailleur  :   Shimano TX50 dual pull, Top swing, 34.9
R. Derailleur  :   Shimano Altus 7spd
Shifter  :   Shimano EF-51 Easyfire 7spd
Brake Levers  :   Shimano integrated lever
Brakes  :   Promax Alloy Linear
Gear  :   Shimano HG20 7spd Cassette (12-28t)
Rims :   32h Weinmann SL-7 Doublewall
Tires  :  WTB Wolverine Comp 29x2.2
Pedals :    MTB Resin 9/16"
Handlebar  :   DB Lazer Series 31.8mm low rise
Stem  :  DB AL6061 Ahead 7° 31.8mm
Seatpost  :   DB Lazer Series Micro Adjust 30.9mm
Seat  :   DB Race saddle
Headset  :   Integrated FSA Drop-in ACB upper, Zero Stack lower internal cup and cartridge bearing, 1 1/8"
Colors  :   Black
Chain  :  KMC-Z51
Hubset  :  (F) 32h SL-7 Alloy QR (R) 32h SL-7 Alloy Cassette QR
Spokes  :   Black 14g Stainless Steel
Grips  :   DB4L 135mm Kraton
Extras  :  Owner’s manual, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat, H20 bottle mounts
Note  :   Specifications Subject to Change

Review : 2013 Kestrel Talon Tri-Shimano 105 Carbon Fiber Bike

Kestrel Talon Tri-Shimano 105 Carbon Fiber Bike Free Maxx HD Sunglasses Valued at $39.99.Kestrel's Talon grabs a hold of the top spot and never lets go. The modular monocoque carbon frame features airfoil-shaped tubes, a rear-wheel cutout in the seat tube and internal cable routing to give you an aero advantage for more speed. Up front, Kestrel's carbon fork smooths the road and lets you carve the corners with ease while dropped onto the aero bars or sprinting on the wings. Shimano's reliable 105 components provide super smooth shifting and solid braking, while the Oval wheels spin.

It is just a sure thing that a lot of people is looking to find 2013 Kestrel Talon Tri-Shimano 105 Carbon Fiber Bike at a reasonable deal. Even so, not each online store could possibly sell 2013 Kestrel Talon Tri-Shimano 105 Carbon Fiber Bike at a true good price. Eventually... You should do a handful of researching and then judge which web-site will offer you the purchase price you prefer all by yourself. Come here and examine whether 2013 Kestrel Talon Tri-Shimano 105 Carbon Fiber Bike is truly cheap or not. Please be sure to read on. You perhaps lastly locate something you are hunting for that is your original goal.

Sizes  :   48cm, 52cm, 55cm, 57cm, 60cm

Color(s) :    Carbon/White

Main frame :    Blend of 700 K/800 K Hi-Modulus Carbon Fiber

Rear triangle :   700 K Carbon Fiber With Replaceable Derailleur Hanger

Fork  :   EMS Pro SL Carbon Steerer, 1 1/8"

Crankset  :   FSA Gossamer 53/39T (48cm, 52cm: 170mm; 55cm, 57cm: 172.5mm; 60cm: 175mm)

Bottom bracket :    FSA Mega Exo

Front derailleur :    Shimano 105, Braze On

Rear derailleur :    Shimano 105, 10-sp

Shifters  :   microSHIFT Bar End

Cassette :    Shimano 4600 11-25T, 10-sp

Chain :    KMC X10 Nickel Plated, 10-sp

Wheelset :    700c: Oval Concepts 330 Alloy Clincher, 30mm F & R, 10-sp

Tires :    Hutchinson Equinox, 700x23c

Brake set  :   Oval Concepts 500

Brake levers :    Oval Concepts 300

Headset  :   Oval Concepts Integrated 1 1/8" Top, 1 1/4" Bottom with Carbon Top Cover

Handlebar :   Profile T2 Wing w/Profile T1+ Aerobar (48cm, 52cm: 40cm; 55cm, 57cm, 60cm: 42cm)

Stem  :   Oval 300 3D Forged 6061 Alloy, 31.8mm, +/-6 degrees (48cm, 52cm: 90mm; 55cm, 57cm: 100mm; 60cm: 110mm)

Tape  :   Kestrel EVA Foam with Gel Padding
Saddle  :   Oval Concepts 500 Tri w/CrMo Rails

Seatpost  :   Kestrel EMS Pro w/Ritchey Clamp System

Weight  :  19.86 lbs / 9.015 kg

Review : Diamondback 2012 Recoil Full Suspension Mountain Bike (Titanium)

The Recoil Total Suspension Mountain Bike from Diamondback is built to actually recoil and react to what ever the open up trail or one monitor throws your way. Created close to an aluminum body with a Tuff Shock Coil rear shock and a SR Suntour XCT seventy five-millimeter fork, the Recoil provides four inches of vacation response. Outfitted with a Shimano Acera rear derailleur with SLM-310 eight-speed rapidfire shifters, the Recoil provides 24 gears to consider you up and down any incline with self confidence and handle. The durable MX260D double-wall disc rims and Tektro Novela mechanical disc brakes have the energy you want for powerful riding.

 

 

Specs:  

Frame:   Diamondback Recoil 6061 T-6 Aluminum Trail with four" vacation, Optimized Single Pivot, SORTIE Device Formed Best Tube, Butted/Formed Down Tube, Sealed Cartridge Bearing Pivot, replaceable hanger

Fork:   SR XCT one hundred-millimeter vacation with exterior preload adj. 

Rear Shock: Tuff Shock Coil 190x51-millimeter with oil Damping

Cranks: SR Suntour XCC T202 24/34/42t

Bottom Bracket: Sealed Cartridge

Front Derailleur: Shimano Altus twin pull, leading swing, 34.9

Rear Derailleur: Shimano Acera SGS eight-speed

Shifter: Shimano SL-M310 eight-speed Rapidfire

Brake Levers: Tektro Alloy with reach Change

Brakes: Tektro Novela Disc with 6" Rotors

Gear: Shimano HG31 eight-speed Cassette (eleven-32t)

Rims: 32-hole MX260D Doublewall

Tires: Kenda Klaw XT significant casing 26x2.one 

Pedals: Diamondback Toe Clip Compatible System

Handlebar: Diamondback SL318b Oversize 31.eight-millimeter Mid Increase

Stem: Diamondback AL6061 Ahead 7-diploma 31.eight-millimeter

Seatpost: Diamondback SL309p Alloy Micro Change thirty.9-millimeter

Seat: WTB VOLT Activity

Headset: Zero Stack Ahead one one/eight-inch

Chain: KMC-Z82

Front Hubset: 32-hole MX260H Alloy with Disc Mount

Rear Hubset: 32-hole MX260H Alloy Cassette with Disc mount

Spokes: Black fourteen-gram Stainless Metal

Grips: DB4L 135-millimeter Kraton

Extras: Owner’s handbook, Chainstay Protector, Distinct Coat

If you’re looking for top recommended, so Diamondback 2012 Recoil Full Suspension Mountain Bike (Titanium) is our suggestion. Many best reviews already proving the quality of this product. Completed with a lot of features which is make it nice product. If you want to know forward of this place finding tools, just read its primary features.

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A Cyclists Diet

A Cyclists Diet: Basic Guidelines

 

One of the most commonly hyped calculation in the health and fitness world is ‘as long as the calories used are greater than the calories consumed you will stay within the realm of a healthy, normal weight’. Does that imply than a cyclist’s diet plan can include just about any category of food as long as all the energy used during cycling makes use of all the calories consumed? Not exactly! A good diet for cyclists involves wholesome, nutritious foods that maximize the cyclist’s energy levels and improve performance. Ideally, a cyclist’s diet plan should incorporate a substantial amount of low fat, high carbohydrate foods and plenty of fluids to prevent dehydration.

The Optimal Diet Plan for Cyclists

The following guidelines for a nutritional diet for cyclists will keep your body fit, healthy and prepared to take on any cycling challenge that it encounters!

Healthy Carbohydrate Rich Foods

Carbohydrates may be equal with excess weight gain for most people, but carbohydrate rich foods are the prime source of energy in a cyclist’s diet plan. Avoid carbohydrate rich foods made with simple sugars and refined flour; those food options are the ones responsible for giving carbohydrates a bad reputation. Incorporate fresh fruits and vegetables, beans, whole grain rice, whole grain breads, and whole grain pasta in your cyclist diet plan to fuel your cycling session.

The Occasional Treat

Everybody enjoys snacks that are rich in sugar or fats. While unrestrained indulgence is not recommended for anyone, cyclist or not, having controlled portions of your favorite snack will not hurt. According to Gale Bernhardt, a triathlon expert and coach for two Olympics, a cyclist’s diet plan should take advantage of the 80-20 rule: if you are eating nutrient rich, healthy foods 80% of the time, the rest of the 20% can be spent in eating treats without any fear of adverse consequences on your health.

Make Allowances for Winter Weight Gain

It is natural for you to put on anywhere between 3 to 8 pounds in the winter season. While you should not take that as an invitation to consume calories without any restraint, you should also refrain from obsessing over maintaining your pre-winter weight, according to Gale Bernhardt.

Taking Care of Your Fluid Intake

It is essential for a cyclist’s diet plan to stress upon fluid intake. Cyclists must make a conscious effort to drink before, during and after their cycling session to replenish the water and minerals lost during the rigorous exercise. Feeling thirsty if one of the first indications of dehydration; take a proactive approach and keep your water bottle handy. Drink about 8 ounces of water before the session, 8 ounces after every half an hour during the ride, and enough water afterwards to make up for lost fluids.

Foods to Have and Foods to Avoid

Some of the recommended foods for cyclists include low fat meat, fish, chicken, fresh fruits, vegetables, pasta, noodles, whole grain breads, whole grain cereals, peanut butter sandwiches, nuts, and legumes. Some of the foods that cyclists should avoid include fried foods, egg yolks, saturated oils, shortening, sugary foods, fatty meats, poultry, and whole milk products.

How to Choose The Correct Handlebars

Comfort

The further you bend over your handlebar, the more weight and pressure you put on your hands. On road bikes this pressure is fairly constant because you're bent over the bar almost constantly. However, road bikes have a dropped handlebar that allows your hands a variety of positions, which helps relieve pressure.

Mountain bikes come with a so-called flat or riser bar that allows your hands only one position. However, because you're seated in a more upright position and not putting as much constant pressure on your hands, this one position is generally not a problem. Bar ends can be added to give your hands more variety.

If you do find your wrists or hands going numb on a long mountain bike ride, check your position on your bike.

Make sure you're not too spread out in the cockpit. Your arms should be at shoulder width.
Make sure you're not leaning too far over the handlebar. If you are, you may have to get a shorter stem, move your saddle forward, purchase a riser bar, or do a combination of the three.

Leverage

Archimedes once said that with a large enough lever, you could move the world. Your handlebars are your leverage when steering. The wider the handlebars, the more leverage you have—or so it seems. A lever only performs when the person pulling or pushing the lever has a stable base from which to work. As you make your handlebars wider, you spread your arms out and in so doing, actually lose leverage.

Ideally, your hands should be at shoulder width as you lean over your handlebars. You can go slightly narrower or slightly wider, but certainly no more than two, possibly three inches either way.

Lift

On a road bike, you don't have much call for lift—the ability to raise your front wheel over obstacles. On a mountain bike, lift is one of the cornerstones of excellent handling.

Road Bike - Your center on a road bike is low and somewhat forward. This means you don't have much leverage when you need to pull back on the handlebar—important when climbing hills. Most pros will keep their hands on the top of the handlebar.

Mountain Bike - Your center on a mountain bike is placed further back. This allows you to lift the front of your bike over obstacles. On downhill bikes and now increasingly on cross-country bikes, riders use a riser bar. This places the weight even further back, allowing the rider to get back out over their rear tire—important on steep descents.

Handlebar Mechanics

Most road bikes use drop bars, while most mountain bikes use flat bars. But in between there are wide deviations. Commuters, for example, tend to like riser bars. Cyclocrossers use drop bars. Triathletes use the odd-looking—but very effective—aerobar. What you choose depends on the type of bike you ride and how you ride it.

Once you've determined what kind of bar you want, consider the following three factors when selecting a bar.

Width

Choose a handlebar that most closely matches the width of your shoulders. On drop and carbon fiber flat bars, you're stuck with the width you choose. On aluminum or chromoly flat bars you can cut the ends down for a narrower grip.

Strength

Most bars are now made of aluminum or carbon fiber. They come with flares, tapers and butting to increase strength and save weight. See "Other Considerations: below.

Weight

Carbon fiber is lighter than aluminum and costs more. Both materials are excellent for a handlebar. The key question you need to answer: Does the weight saving justify the cost?

Other Considerations

Flared

This simply means that the bar has a wider diameter towards its middle than at its ends. The width of the handlebar wall does not change on flared bars. Basically it's a way of adding strength by adding material—a larger tube is stronger. It also adds some weight.

Tapered

To save weight, manufacturers will make the handlebar wall thinner as the bar moves away from the stem area to the grips. This puts strength where it is needed most.

Butted

Particularly on riser bars, which are used primarily on downhill bikes, the bars are butted to provided even more strength while shaving weight. The butting usually occurs at the middle of the bar, where the stem holds it and at the second riser bends.

Bar Ends

To add more hand positions to a flat or riser bar, riders will add bar ends. These devices are also good for added leverage on climbs with poor traction. They allow you to get your weight back and your center of gravity lower much like the drops in a drop bar.

How to Shift & How to Change Gears on Your Bike

How to Change Gears on Your Bike :

Knowing when and how to change the gears on your bike is not one of those things that is immediately intuitive to most people. It seems like it should be simple to do, but somehow it ends up more complicated than that and many riders new to a geared bike feel frustration the first few times as they invariably shift into a much harder (or easier) gear than the one they really wanted.

The actual shifting of gears, clicking from one to another is not difficult. It's just a matter of getting the feel for going up or down in the range of gears, and the good news is that being able to shift smoothly is about 80% practice and only about 20% understanding what's happening. In no time at all, you'll be shifting like a pro, changing gears smoothly without even thinking about it.

Why Bikes Have Gears - What Shifting Does :

When it comes right down to it, bikes have gears to allow your pedal speed (your cadence) to stay relatively steady and at about the same level of effort, regardless of if you're going down a big hill or up it. Your speed may change, but having gears means you can climb without killing yourself as well as to go fast on a descent, your pedaling still pushing the bike forward and not just twirling futilely, your feet unable to keep up with the speed of your wheels.

It works like this. If all the riding you ever did was on a flat level road at a constant speed, you wouldn't need gears at all. Your bike would have just one gear, set at just that right spot where where you can keep pedaling at a nice comfortable pace without killing yourself. From the riding you've done so far, you certainly know the feeling when you are cruising along in the cadence that is just right for you - going along at a steady clip but not straining yourself. That's what we're trying to have happen with our pedaling all the time.

But the world is not flat, as you know, and there are hills that we go up and down when we ride. Putting gears on the bike allows you to keep pedaling at that sweet point we talked about where you're most comfortable, regardless of the incline.

The tradeoff is that easier pedaling up a hill means you're going to be going slower. And to be able to zoom fast down a hill, you ride in a gear that is much higher than you'd ordinarily be able to start out in or even use to ride on the flat. In both cases your effort pushing on the pedals feels about the same, because the gearing makes adjustments that allow you to either climb easier or go faster than you would if you had just one gear.

Shifting Your Bike's Rear Gears :

Most bikes with gears have between five and nine gears in the back. We are talking about these back gears first because they are the most important to you and where most of your shifting takes place. The shifter for your back gears is usually at your right hand. Get in the habit of using these first.

The shifter on the other side changes the front chain rings. Those are for major shifting that doesn't happen as frequently, but the rear sprockets are what you use almost continuously for small adjustments as you go. It would not be uncommon for you to make several shifts over a couple hundred yards as the terrain goes up and down.

In the back, the biggest sprocket, the one closest to the inside of your wheel, produces your easiest pedaling. The smallest sprocket on your rear wheel, the outermost one, allows you to go the fastest, but is not going to be easy to pedal in unless you're already moving pretty good.

What you're ultimately trying to get the feel for -- and what will become second nature for quickly with just a little practice -- is to shift when you sense that your pedaling is becoming easier or more difficult as it happens, so that you maintain yourself in that perfect and comfortable pedaling spot.

Picture this: the pedaling starts to get just a bit harder because of a small rise in the path and you automatically flip it into an easier gear to maintain your cadence, or pedaling rhythm. Or, the road starts to flatten out and go downhill in front of you and your speed increases, so you flip quickly into a higher gear, and allow yourself to go even faster with the same amout of exertion.

When you notice that you're starting to do this without even thinking is when you'll realize that you've gotten the hang of shifting.

What the Front Gears Do :

Most bikes with gears have two or three big ones up front. Located by your pedals, these are most commonly called chain rings. And you actually won't use them very much at all. Especially when you first get started, you should make a point not to worry about shifting them your front gears at all. Most experienced cyclists will pick one and stay in it probably 90% of the time, and you'll be just fine in picking one and sticking with it.

This is because the big gears in front are for making major shifts in the overall range of your gears. For instance, the smallest chain ring up front is going to give you the easiest pedaling. So if you anticipate a lot of climbing, you'll probably want to operate primarily using the small chain ring in the front, and again, doing most of the actual shifting in your rear gears. If you've got lots of flat riding or down hills, the larger chain ring in front will serve you better. It will allow you to go faster by providing higher gears for you to use, when the bike is already moving fast enough that you can keep the pedals going without the type of exertion it would require if you were going slower or climbing.

Again, the basic premise is to pick one and generally stay there. Youre adjustments should be continuous, smaller shifting through the gears in the back. You'll only shift the between the front rings if the range of gearing in the back, where most of your shifting takes place, is not allowing you to do what you need to do to either climb easily or pedal fast enough on the downhills to keep driving the pedals.

Shifting Tips - A Few More Hints About Changing Gears

Once you've mastered the basics of shifting there are a couple more things to remember that will help you make changing your gears go even more smoothly.

1. Anticipate shifts: It is very difficult to change gears (and bad for your bike) when you pushing the pedals very hard. So get in the habit of downshifting into an easier gear as you come to a stop or begin the approach to a big hill.

2. Don't try to shift when you are stopped. Bikes with traditional gearing are designed to be shifted when the pedals are moving, so don't try to shift when you are stopped. It's bad for the bike to shift when the pedals are not turning, and so you want to remember this and anticipate your stops, shifting to the right gear that you want to be in starting out before you actually stop.

3. Avoid cross-chaining: It's hard on your chain and your sprockets to be at extreme angles. To avoid this, don't shift your bike to a spot where it's on the littlest ring in the front and smallest gear in the back, or vice-versa, on the large ring in both front and back. That puts the chain on opposite extreme ends of the spectrum and if you find yourself in this situation, it's a good sign that it's time for a big shift in the front gear to help bring things back in synch.

How to Change a Bike Tire on a Mountain Bike

Want a fun way to change the character of your bike? Change the tires. A set of smooth tires on your mountain bike, for example, will give a much faster ride on pavement. Tires also wear out, of course, and learning to replace them will save you money. Because tires come in many sizes, take your old tire with you when purchasing a replacement, to make sure you get the size right.

Steps :

1. Turn the mountain bike over onto its back. 
In other words, position your mountain bike in such a way that the seat and handlebars are on the ground and the 2 tires are in the air. The tires should be able to spin freely without any resistance.

2. Remove the faulty tire from the mountain bike. 
Your tire will be kept on the axle by 2 nuts, 1 on each side, and these nuts will need to be loosened and removed.
Depending on the make of your mountain bike, you may also need to undo a quick release lever on the side of the tire.
Disengage the brake cable before pulling out the tire from between the brake pads.

3. Remove the tube from the rim of the wheel.
Locate the valve stem for air input and choose a spot on the opposite side of the wheel. Using the beveled end of a tire iron, separate the tire from the wheel rim and latch the iron onto a spoke.
Repeat with a second tire iron approximately 1 inch away from the first tire iron. Keep doing this around the wheel until you can fully remove the tube from inside.

4. Check and clean the inside of the tire for debris.
 Look for anything that could cause future tears or punctures. In particular, thorns, glass shards, and metal shrapnel should be removed.

5. Locate the holes or tears in the tube. 
To find the holes, you can submerge the tube under water and look for bubbles, or you can pump up the tube and listen for any air leaks.
If a hole is located on a seam or ridge along the tube, the tire patch may not hold well and the tube will be irreparable. In that case, you'll have to purchase a brand new replacement tube.
6Patch the holes using the bike tire patch kit. Roughen the areas of the tube around the holes using sandpaper. Apply a glueless patch to the tube firmly, covering and sealing the hole as tightly as you can.

7. Wait a few minutes for the patch to bond to the tube.

8. Test to see if the patch has held well. 
Pump up the tube slightly and see if there are any air leaks with the new patch. If there are, you may need to try again and apply a new patch, or the tube may be too damaged and you'll need to purchase a new one.

9. Place the tube back into the tire. 
Starting with the valve stem, insert the tube back into the tire. Make sure the valve stem is centered correctly or else it could end up being damaged with future use. Work the tire rubber back into the rim, removing 1 tire iron at a time.

10. Secure the tire into your bike frame. 
Screw the nuts back onto the axle and reconnect the brake cables. Make sure your tire is centered correctly and be sure that your brakes are working correctly.

11. Pump up your new tire.

How to Box Up Your Bike for Shipping

1. What You’ll Need

For this job you’ll need a bike box. Your local bike shop should have one, but it’s a good idea to call ahead with the size of your bike. They should also have some extra fork and axle protectors. Most decent bike shops won’t charge for these materials.
You will also need: packing material such as cardboard, pipe insulation, bubble wrap etc., string or zip ties to fasten padding materials, 4, 5 and 6mm allen wrenches, a 15mm pedal wrench and a 15mm open end wrench if your bike has nutted axles. If you have a bike repair stand, it will make this job a lot easier, but is not necessary.

2. Tire Pressure

First you’ll want to deflate your tires. You don’t have to deflate them completely but just enough so they are soft. This prevents any damage that could occur with changes in air pressure associated with air travel.

3. Pedal Removal

Now remove your pedals. Loosen the right pedal by turning counter-clockwise. The left pedal is a reverse thread, so you’ll have to turn it clockwise to loosen it. See the tutorial titled “How to Replace Your Pedals” for more tips on removing and installing pedals.

4. Brakes

If you have caliper brakes, disconnect your front brake cable and remove the front wheel. For more tips on wheel removal see the tutorial titled “How to Remove and Install Your Wheels“.
5. Front Quick Release

If your wheels have quick release axles, remove the quick release skewer, and thread the end back on in order to keep it together. Press the axle protectors into each side of the front axle. Slide the fork protector up into the fork drop-outs.

5. Saddle Removal

Now, loosen your seat post clamp and pull the seat and post up and out of the frame.

6. Protection

Using the cardboard or bubble wrap, wrap the entire bike frame, crank arms and ends of the rear axle. Use zip-ties, string or tape to hold these in place.

7. Stem Removal

If you have a threadless headset, loosen and remove the top cap of the stem, and then loosen each individual side bolt. Now you can slide the stem up and off the forks steerer tube. Be careful to hold the fork in place so the headset bearings stay in place. Tighten a zip tie around the steerer tube just above the headset, and then thread the top cap back in place and slightly tighten it just enough to keep it in place.
If you have an older quill type stem, loosen the top bolt about a centimeter and then give it a light tap with a hammer to loosen the quill. Now you can pull the stem up and out of the steerer tube.

8. Packing the Box

Rest the bike on the ground and tie the bike wheel onto the left side of the frame, making sure the axle is not touching any part of the frame. Also make sure your left crank arm is carefully tucked into the wheel spokes so that it does not touch the wheel rim.
Rotate the forks 180 degrees so they are facing backwards. Carefully tuck the handlebars into the right side of the frame. You may need to twist them to ensure the package maintains as low of a profile as possible. Fasten them in place with string or zip ties. Use cardboard or padding as needed to ensure no part of the bars or stem are touching the frame or wheels.
Now lift the bike and slide it into the box.
Wrap your seat and seat post for protection and fasten them to the rear wheel so they don’t rattle around the box.
Now place your pedals, quick release, and any other spare parts in a bag or small box and slide it down just behind the fork.
If you have extra materials such as sleeping bags or clothing you can stuff these into the remaining spaces for extra protection.
Now you’re ready to close your box and secure it with packing tape on both the top and bottom. Make sure any holes in the box are also sealed.